Coastal Dynamics

Coastal Dynamics: Dynamics of coastal zones and shallow seas

This research theme consists of studies in the relatively shallow coastal zone using both field and laboratory observations and theoretical modelling. This subject was initiated at NIOZ in the early seventies. Inspired by the tidal currents in the nearby Wadden Sea a series of PhD studies were performed. Presently a detailed analysis of the exchange of water and sediments from the coastal zone to the WaddenSea is done based on ongoing ferry observations on currents and suspended sediments in the Marsdiep inlet. A laboratory scale model of a tidal embayment is used to obtain detailed laboratory observations on non-linear aspects of tidal motions in coastal embayments.